Few things get my blood boiling like a good rant, so it is
no surprise to me that my first post is a restaurant review. And not a rant, a rave.
Pook and Janie Depp and I went to Rhubarb on Pack Square in
lovely downtown Asheville and had a truly lovely dinner. We sat at the chef's counter and were able to
watch calm and competent professionals work as a team. No meanness, no inappropriate stress. We ordered starters and salads, wanting to
taste as many offerings as possible.
The only disappointment was the very first starter -the Salt
and Vinegar Kale chips. They were great kale chips, but had no detectable
vinegar flavor. (Also, please be wary of spending the rest of the evening with
kale in your teeth.) Everything was just
as tasty as could be from that point forward.
The Crispy Brussels Sprouts and Cauliflower with North African Spiced
Cruze Ranch were great. Nice roasted
flavor and the perfect level of spice in the dressing. The Lobster Corn Dogs
with Comeback Sauce were to die for....lovely delicate orbs of scallops and
lobster served a la the Iowa State Fair on a stick with a tangy sauce. And the
Cheese and Meat Plate was well balanced and plentiful. If I could buy the made in house Rye and
Fruit Bread I would eat it every day. It
really is that good.
With the help of our charming server we segued gracefully to
the 3 salads. Local Lyonnaise won the
favorite vote by 2 out of 3. Crispy
Trout Sardines and a perfectly fried local egg made it unctuous and
intense. I personally loved the Charred
Farro and Beet salad...once again the kitchen's mastery of sauces, dressings
and dips shone with the Fall Green Goddess. And the somewhat less dramatic
Marinated Tender Hearty Greens was still beautiful with its Sweet Sherry
Vinaigrette.
As we were nibbling and comparing and chatting merrily, we
were also watching the cooks. And there
was one dish that looked so darn delicious being prepared that we had to try
it, even though we were quite satisfied at this point. With nary a sideways glance they agreed to
split the entry onto 3 plates and we were able to watch our Looking Glass Goat
Cheese Gnudi come to life. I wish I knew
the name of the chef-he was perfectly understated while being totally
available. And he produced a truly
wonderful entrée. The wood grilled
radicchio and local mushrooms were the perfect choreography for the ethereal
gnudi, once again glistening with an impeccably restrained sauce.
I can cook and I can eat, and I am really not that nice or
easily pleased. So it is cause for great
personal celebration to have a lovely meal in a very pleasing environment for a
quite reasonable cost. I will definitely
bring friends and look forward to having room for dessert.
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